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Hugh Gray's Letter : 1852
Letter written after his arrival in Victoria, back to Scotland and published in an 1852 Glasgow Newspaper.
PROGRESS AT THE DIGGINGS
A staunch Glasgow liberal has just received a long letter from the Antipodes from a well-known Glaswegian of the same school, the leading features of which we have been requested to publish. He writes from Geelong, on arrival, and says I will now give you my experience since our arrival.
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After the quarantine deity had been propitiated by the sacrifice of about half a dozen human beings, the employers were allowed to come on board for the purpose of hiring the passengers. They who were willing to engage got work at once. I engaged with a man as a blacksmith in Geelong; but how was I to get ashore, the charge being 5s in the steamer, and I had only three-halfpence (which I got from a fellow passenger for a fish-hook). The captain would not put the passengers on shore free of charge till the following Monday, and this happened on Wednesday. What was I to do? I never felt the curse of poverty so much as at this time. I took my watch with me, and gave it to the steamboat keeper. I might have got as much from the person who engaged me if I had asked, but I wanted to step ashore independent, and did so at half-past eight o'clock p.m. 15th September 1852, leaving Mrs. G and the children aboard. I followed the "boss" to his place of business through mud holes, and what they called streets, for about a quarter of an hour, and got introduced to Joe, who got orders to make some tea, and accommodate me as well as possible. Joe did so. After tea he got a quantity of wool-sacks, but minus the wool, for a bed. I lay down with my clothes on, for the first time in my life, to sleep, but got very little. Recent events and the novelty of my position banished sleep. Joe lay down on his stretcher, and I lay alongside on the wool-sacks, when he entertained me with some information which did not act as a narcotic. The sum and substance was as follows:-
Our "boss" is a coach and dray maker, Henry Palmer, a good enough man, but the better to be taken care of. This painter is Joe, who was banished from London about sixteen years ago for theft, and only escaped the gallows on account of his youth. After a good many ups and downs, floggings, and punishments, he became a Methodist, got a ticket-of-leave, and finally a free pardon. He kept a Sunday School in Van Diemen's Land, married a wife, has four children ( whom he expects in a few days from Van Diemen's Land ), has been trying to convert some natives, and wishes me to accompany him on Sunday first to assist in the good work of saving souls. I told him I would see when Sunday came, if I got my clothes ashore, especially my black coat, before then, as the influence on the savages would be heightened by appearing respectable. I did not get my coat in time, and so the souls that we intended to save are not saved yet, at least by us. Such is a short sketch of the first person whom I was introduced to on my arrival in Australia. Neither of us having any inclination to sleep, we lay and chatted, and smoked, keeping the candle burning until four o'clock. I arose about six, went out to see the place, and came back for breakfast, which Joe had ready. I commenced to work at nine, and got on very well, considering my hands suffered much from blisters. on Monday the family came on shore, and I got two pounds from the "boss". He gave me a house, next door to Joe at 10s per week. Having saved some biscuit and other little things from our rations, we saw we could get on for another week. When Saturday came, I wanted to see how the "boss" and I was to settle, when he paid with four pounds per week which I had to accept, not having made my bargain about wages. I left him in consequence, but William, my son, was with him at two pounds, so I let him stop. On the Monday I went to Melbourne to deliver some letters of introduction to parties, and to see what was to be done. I found the whole of them, with one exception, not worth a breakfast, and that was the one for your daughter. I had a good deal of seeking before I found her, but knew her at once. Her husband is at the diggings, and is doing very well. She seems very comfortable, and would like to see you all out. I told her how hard it was to live in Glasgow, and she said when Robert came back they hoped to be able to send you a few specimens. I gave her my address, and she was to send it to her husband, and that he would give me a call as he came from the gold fields. He has never done so, and I have never been in Melbourne since. I got work when I came back to Geelong to put up a weather board store at six pounds per week. We were a fortnight at it, and then I had to look for another house. I took one for a month at 30s per week, got a bench made, and my lathe fitted up, and got as much wood-work to turn as I could do. I likewise mended parasols, and other small jobs. I was getting on very well, when they unfortunately raised our rent to three pounds per week. This I would not stand, and looked out for another shed, which I got for two pounds per week. We have four rooms and an outhouse, and I built a small workshop, where I turn and do any jobbing. Robert is with a butcher, and has two pounds five shillings with his board, per week. William is with a smith and dray-maker, and has three pounds per week. Janet is with a family, and has 6s per week. I am at present building a house for William's master, and can make about seven pounds per week out of it. I have other three to begin to when this one is done, if we can settle regarding the terms, about which I have no doubt we will agree. our livestock at present consists of four hens, thirty chickens out, and fourteen eggs set, a he and she goat, a dog and cat, and I expect a cockatoo. We have the two front rooms let at present for 25s a week, so that gives us a lift in our rent. You will see from this statement that we have bettered our condition considerably, and so will the most of people who have hard work in Glasgow who are able to do anything here. A man with a family has every chance to get on well, employment being for all, old or young. A lady beside us gave little Elizabeth 3s and her meat per week to keep her children company. Such is the history of our adventure since we left the ship. I will now give you a description of the country so far as I have seen. I must confess I was somewhat disappointed at the appearance of the country at first, but the longer I am in it I like it the better. Geelong is placed at the head of a large bay, which would form a fine harbour, but a bar of sand runs across the entrance, which prevents large vessels from entering; inside the bar there is water for any size of ships. You will see by the newspaper I have sent you that the bar is to be removed. The town is built on a rising ground all round the bay, not unlike Rothesay bay, but a vast deal larger. There are a few stone and brick buildings, but most of the houses are built of wood, not by any means so comfortable or roomy as the houses in Glasgow, and the rents-oh! what do you think for a room and kitchen, each twelve feet square, and a small yard for holding wood and water? At the present time they cannot be under three pounds per week, and an assessment of 5 per cent. on rental. Before the gold-digging commenced the same premises were let for 5s. I have had but few walks yet, only a few miles around the town, but nothing is to be seen except gum trees, and ugly, twisted things they are. The wind blows so strong at times that respectable (that is, trees with a good coat) could not grow; but they make excellent firewood, and cost about 30s for what a horse can pull on a dray through a clay hole, and which serves a single fire about four weeks. I have been at the Barwon River, about two miles from towns, but such a river! The same description will serve for the yarra at Melbourne. They are both slow running, Lethe-looking things about the breadth of Cart at the water neb, but very deep. The nature of the soil supports the banks; they are like canals, the banks are so steep, and, like them, the home of every dirty thing - dead dogs, bats, snakes, bullocks, sheep, goats, and a host of other animals I don't know the name of, and, mind you, the above are in abundance. This is the water we pay 6s a load for, about a hogshead. I cannot drink it; either of the canals about Glasgow is much better. oh, for a drink of Glen Sannox water here! We catch the rain water and filter it, and it is very good, at least we know it is clean. So much for wood and water; next for grub. Beef and mutton are plenty, but not so good as at home, being tough and dry, and 5d a pound. Fish nobody has time to catch, although plenty in the bay; when they are to be had, is 6d for a fish about the size of a Lochfine herring. Eggs, 5s per dozen. Butter, eatable, 3s 6d per pound; not eatable, 3s. Cheese, stinking, 2s 6d; not stinking, but full of mauchs, 2s. Red herrings from home, 4d each; can hardly stick together. Bacon, is 8d per pound. Potatoes, 4d per pound. Cabbages, of seven and eight leaves, no heart is. Onions, is 6d per pound; very good. 2 pound loaf, 10d.; about three weeks ago sold for is 6d. Chickens, 14 s per pair. So much for grub, now for drink. Brandy 7s 6d the bottle; very good, but can't drink it. Gin ( to drink it is like pulling a cat by the tail up your throat), 7s 6d the bottle. Whisky, is the glass; common malt. London porter, 2s 6d the bottle. Ale, horrid trash, is the quart. From this you see how we have to pay; but, mark you, we have something to buy with. Clothing is not so far out of the way. Shoes and boots are very dear: shop shoes about a month ago sold for 30s; they are cheaper now, but trysted shoes are still dear The shoemakers get 20s for making shoes; boots are very high; closing costs 30s, and so on. "The climate is not what I expected it to be. We have warm days and cold nights; but I have suffered more heat more in midsummer in Scotland than I have done here. The nights are always chilly; not having a thermometer I judge the degrees by the butter - 6 a.m., wont spread on the soft bread; 8 a.m., at breakfast spreads easily; 1 p.m., runs like treacle; 4 p.m., about the thickness of sour milk, and keeps as such till the evening, when it again hardens throughout the night. Cannot do without flannels next to the skin, nor blankets at night; and when the hot winds come they are very nasty. I have experienced them twice since I landed; they don't last above twelve hours, then a flash of lightning, then a rumble of thunder, then a shower of rain; but such lightening, thunder, and rain, I had no idea of. I have seen in the short time I have been here more lightening, and heard more thunder, than I have done in all my life, put all together: this continues about five or six hours, then we have two or three weeks of fine weather, only very blowy throughout the day, calm in the morning until about ten, when it begins to blow steadily till the evening, then it dies away. To sum up, this is a glorious place to make money in and "flee dragons!" "Since the gold diggings commenced labour has been high; carpenters and anybody who can handle a plane and saw well do earn from 20s to 25s a-day; blacksmiths, not very nice, from 18s to 25s; common labourers, Ss to 10s a-day and so on. "I have not made up my mind when I shall go to the diggings, I want to get thoroughly climatised before I go, and earn something to keep the family while away. No doubt you will hear great things about the gold that is got, but plenty have been unsuccessful and lost all, and this is not a place to be in and have a "toom pouch." The highest diggings is about 50 miles from Geelong. The distance can be walked in two days with ease, this being the highest port, for the best gold fields create a good deal of stir in town. My two sons are anxious to try their hand, but I should like to go with them, for it is a ticklish place to a new chum. I think we will be able to start in a month or six weeks, to be up before the rainy season sets in, which is in April. You will see by the papers I sent you that three large nuggets had been found, weighing 134, 98, and 74 lbs. respectively; they say there are some even larger. On the whole, the diggers are doing pretty well at present. Doubts are expressed by some of the old hands as to the future yield of the diggings, but I have none; I believe that larger amounts will be produced for years to come. Of course I am not speaking from my own observations, but from a description of the country by parties who know the region well. Yet, though the gold may get scarce, this will be a great country. I thank my stars that I am in it. I have placed my family in a position of independence - as every person may be who can or will do anything. Black coats and idlers are at a discount here. It is no disgrace to be working man in this country, labour being the true capital. In this respect, as in many others, we are quite the reverse of you. It is not the coat that makes the man here as with you. I know men worth thousands of pounds, with lands and houses, you would not give five shillings for boots, trousers and all they contain to appearance. This is one cause why I like the place so well; a fast man has no chance above a slow one. Another cause why I like this place is the perfect freedom on religious matters. You may go to church, or go to fish on Sunday, or work if you have a mind, and nobody interferes with you. It would shock some of my pious friends were they to know that I played the fiddle lately from Saturday night at eight o'clock till four on Sunday morning. The cause was this: a poor old man and woman who are hard-up beside us was to have a benefit- that is, a few neighbours subscribed to have a ball and they requested that I would do the Apollo part of the business; which I did till the time aforesaid. Dancing was kept up with great spirits and glee the whole time. The parties got about eight pounds, which gave them a lift. There are no beggars here; I have not seen one. When any are unfortunate, the custom is to get a subscription for them and sometimes as much as fifty pounds is got in a few hours. On one occasion of burning, lately, a hundred and thirty pounds were collected in a forenoon, and that to a man who had not been in the town a year. We have lots of Mormons, Catholics, Methodists, &c, but the most intolerant here, as at home are the Freels; but, praise to the good sense, they are not very plenty. We are not troubled very much with vermin- not so much as I expected. I have not yet seen a snake, although they are very numerous in the bush, and very poisonous. I have killed several centipedes, whose bite is much dreaded as that of the snake. They are brought in with the wood, and lie under the bark until it is laid on the fire, when they come out and run like devils for the first hole. The ants are very plenty and troublesome; they bite hard. But these are small matters, and we can afford to put up with them. "Since we came on shore we have been very healthy, but I don't think the place so healthy as some books say it is. Rheumatism and inflammation are as common as at home, consumption is not unknown, and we have fever - at which I do not wonder, considering the quantities of decaying animals lying in every direction, the amount of animal food eaten, and how much brandy is used." "H.G". 19th December 1852.
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